***MAS—39 Downing Street (between Seventh Avenue South and Bedford Street)—212-255-1790—There’s good reason for New Yorkers to discover that Manhattan has its very own Downing Street, now that Mas (you don’t pronounce the “s”) has overtaken the space that once housed Isla. Designed by David Netto and Kate Kaiser, Mas (which means “farmhouse” in French) combines traditional and contemporary elements to serve up a relaxed yet elegant interior mix: antique wooden beams, stone walls, a glass-and-steel wine room and comfy blue suede banquettes. Presided over by chef Galen Zamarra (ex-Bouley Bakery) partners Hugh Crickmore (former sommelier at Marseille) and Tom Wilson (ex-Nice Matin), Mas is faintly Mediterranean in concept with a firm foundation in indigenous farm-fresh produce. Chef Netto excels in pairing unexpected ingredients — like tuna in a beurre noisette with wild ramps—without veering into realms of eccentricity. The wine list is rife with regional selections from as far afield as Corsica and New York State. Service is attentive. WWW $$$
Firsts—Mango-parsnip velouté with roasted oysters, shaved tuna with beurre noisette and wild ramps.
Mains—Saddle of lamb wrapped in Spinach with eggplant moussaka, clay-baked Hudson Valley squab with truffled duck pies.
Finales— Chocolate stout ice cream, banana tuiles with honey ice cream.
**½ MERGE—142 West 10th Street (between Greenwich Avenue and Seventh Avenue South)—691-7757—Merge is a neighborhood place where local denizens converge with ease. A casual sense of flair prevails within this long beige-and-gray setting that is dimly lit and noisy. Bare floors and cramped paper-topped tables do little to quell the din. An instantly accessible smoky bar beckons under a chorus line of globe lights, and candles flicker at every turn. But the greeting is disinterested and servers rush about the room to keep up with demand. Chef/partner Sam Demarco (First, District) and chef Joe Mallol present a concise American menu enhanced by an ever-reliable special of the day. The kitchen's creativity and wit makes for sensible, satisfying and crowd-cosseting fare. The succinct wine list contains some interesting labels. If you have to make a field trip to feast at Merge, it might not be your regular haunt, but it's worth the journey.
Firsts—Crisp Asian oysters with seaweed salad, fettucine and rabbit ragù.
Mains—Breaded diver sea scallops with celery remoulade and haricots verts, grilled lemon chicken with broccoli rabe and white beans.
Finales—S'mores, sweet potato spice panna cotta.
**½ NAM—110 Reade Street (between Church Street and West Broadway)—267-1777—Managing partner Steven Duong’s steamlined oasis is understated yet artful. Under spinning ceiling fans, Nam’s stylish spareness simply oozes with tranquility as walls of creamy lemon and soft celadon glow with vintage family photos. Sturdy stalks of bamboo and diminutive plantings of wheatgrass impart an earthy accent. The kitchen’s first-rate Vietnamese fare showcases a delicate touch in both composition and spicing; the diverse menu is loaded with well-balanced possibilities, ranging from “street food” to more sophisticated fare. Presentations are colorful and portions are ample, although the wine list is limited. And while smiling servers can be a bit distracted, they’re well intended. The Nam experience is exotic, transporting — and gentle to your credit card. W $$$
Firsts—Crispy spring rolls with shrimp, pork and vegetables, wok-seared chopped monkfish with roasted peanuts and rice cracker.
Mains—Crispy red snapper in chile lime sauce, steamed sea bass with bean thread noodles and mushrooms.
Finales—Guava mousse, lychee sorbet with champagne.
*** OLA—304 East 48th Street (between Second and First Avenues)—212-759-0590—This extremely hard-to-locate destination (tip: the address is inscribed below the door sash) is easy to relish once inside. Chef/owner Douglas Rodriguez’s latest celebration of Latin American cooking takes place both on the plate and in the dining room, where a party-like atmosphere prevails. Boldly flavored favorites from Rodriguez’s earlier restaurant incarnations (Chicama, Pipa and Patria) include original tapas combinations and seductive ceviches prepped from market-fresh ingredients. In a bow to the current carb craze, Rodriguez has spiked his roster with offerings of pure protein -- grilled whole dorado, crispy Cuban pork and “mystery” meatballs made from Kobe beef. A minimalist interior is enlivened by subtle cove lighting, pinstripe upholstered banquettes, and painted red tables. A bar brimming with backlit bottles points to an essential element of the OLA experience; festive cocktails — from the traditional mojito to a saffron-citrus margarita. The wine list is rife with Spanish, Chilean and Argentinean listings, some priced well under $30.00. Servers are knowledgeable (they have to be, given the unusual twists to the menu) and friendly. WWW $$$$
Firsts—Rainbow ceviche (tuna, fluke and salmon) with white soy, citrus juices and red onions, duck liver terrine on hazelnut raisin toast.
Mains—Crispy Cuban pork with Oregano lime mojo, churrasco of beef tenderloin in basil chimichurri.
Finales—Coffee tres leches, chocolate mil hojas.
*** OLIVES NY—201 Park Avenue South (at 17th Street in the W Hotel)—353-8345—With the New York arrival of his much heralded restaurant chain, Todd English has become the city's latest culinary icon. Located in Union Square's trendy new W Hotel, the David Rockwell-designed outpost projects an of-the-moment yet contrived sense of cool. The two-story space is done up in subdued tones of olive, russet, saffron and chartreuse. It also boasts an impressive open kitchen. Tables are cramped and the staff is somewhat mechanical. Quirky lighting fixtures cast an exacting glow; decibels rage as the room fills up. English's trademark Mediterranean-inspired cooking can be overwrought, and his style heavy-handed. But the kitchen clicks more often than not. Each dish is a busy hub of seasonal flavors and complex textures. This distinctive destination ranks high on the fun scale. Its success is due to location, location, location and reputation, reputation, reputation. $$$$ www
Firsts—Yellowfin tuna with crispy rock shrimp, cucumber and sesame dressing, shredded artichoke salad on a fontina risotto cake.
Mains—Dover sole with chanterelle ravioli and foie gras, spit-roasted herb and garlic basted chicken with mashed potato cake.
Finales—Peppermint bombe, vanilla soufflé.
** PIE—124 Fourth Avenue (between 12th and 13th Streets)—212-475-4997—Here’s an imaginative reinterpretation of the old pizza mold. Behind an easily ignored façade, Pie is a no-frills sliver of a space. But it’s a site that excites. Nothing has been spared when it comes to the 27 varieties of pizzas prepped within these minimalist premises. Broadly eclectic toppings dress thin-crusted oblong-shaped pizzas. Each eye-catching specimen is like an edible magic carpet. Make your selection, choose the size of your portion and then it’s snipped off, weighed and charged out by the pound. Flavors are concise and the pizzas are uniformly crispy. You’re denying yourself if you order only one variation of the inviting ingredient pairings — all of which are modestly priced. The user-friendly service process works rather routinely and the menu’s tempting modern mix has triggered Pie’s burgeoning popularity. $
Mains—Five-cheese pie, zucchini pie, mushroom pie, potato pie, Genoa salami pie and brunch pie.
Finales—Nutella pie, apple pie.
with berries, coffee granita.
*** SUSHI OF GARI—402 East 78th Street (between York and First Avenue)—212-517-5340—Masatoshi Sugio, better known as Chef Gari, is one of the culinary darlings of the Upper East Side. Loyal legions flock to this pint-size sushi palace to indulge in his creative and unique artistry. If you happen to live in Sushi of Gari’s limited delivery zone, your address has added cachet and possibly greater value in the real estate arena. Gari’s renditions are bold, yet convey an almost precious delicacy. The extensive selection of fish is glistening, luxuriously fresh and always interesting. Prices for these stylish morsels can be sky-high, and portions at times small, but the selection is always surprising and memorable. Chef Gari’s euphoric tasting menu is a palate-intensive festival which celebrates a range of intricate flavors and textures. A harried staff deals with the constant clamor and tries gamely to keep it—and you—moving at a swift clip. Sushi of Gari’s knack for imagination has inspired many chefs and spawned its share of imitators. W $$$$
Firsts—Gyoza (pork-fried dumplings), cheese shumai.
Mains—Tuna of Gari sushi assortment and one roll, Gari’s choice (leave your meal to the master) sushi à la carte (such as Kanpachi, white shrimp, yellowtail, sea eel, bonito) Maki sushi (such as spicy tuna, almond skin, fried oyster).
Finale—Taiyaki (red bean paste).
*** TAMARIND—43 East 22nd Street (between Broadway and Park Avenue South)—674-7400—Step into this airy, whitewashed oasis and seductive aromas flirt with your senses. Owner Avtar Walia's (Dawat) stylish setting provides a sleek forum for intimate dining nooks set graciously within the flowing floor plan. Drum-shaped lighting fixtures, geometric patterned upholstery, framed textiles and an unexpected wall of hanging cowbells show acute attention to visual detail. The glassed-in stainless steel kitchen, equipped with tandoori ovens, is perfectly positioned to showcase well-synchronized activity. Executive chef Raji Jallepalli-Reis (who commutes from Memphis where she owns restaurant Raji) has fashioned a multiregional Indian menu with fusion flair. Her potent recipes abound with creativity, displaying a sound representation of classic dishes and vegetarian specialties. Portions are generous and appealingly presented. The ever-courteous staff exudes knowledge and enthusiasm.
Firsts— Shrimp balchao (in a spicy chili masala sauce), tandoori scallops.
Mains—Tandoori bataer (marinated and grilled quail with tamarind fig sauce), gilafi seekj kebab (minced lamb with coriander, peppers and sundried tomato).
Finales—Crème brûlée, ginger ice cream.
*½ TAO — 42 East 58th Street (between Park and Madison Avenues) — (212) 888-2288 — Thanks to owner Marc Parker and executive chef Sam Hazen (Rue 57), this former movie theater has morphed into an of-the-moment, fantasy-like playpen. Beneath the serene gaze of a 16-foot high Buddha, you'll graze on stylized Pan-Asian fare. The brick-walled, bamboo-bedecked interior sports widely spaced, ebony-topped tables and an array of smaller Buddhas, all bathed in the soft light of lanterns and candles. Chef Troy Guard (ex-Roy's) and crew turn out an eclectic roster of Thai, Japanese and Hong Kong Chinese cuisine. Despite the scope of the menu—which is a good read—it all lacks definition of flavor. Presentations, however, are precise and artful. You'll find a mezzanine level sushi bar and a private dining room located in the radically transformed projection booth. Unpolished servers push lobster dumplings with programmed enthusiasm. Tao's varied, but unrefined, cuisine is no match for the good looks of this unexpected sanctuary. $$ w
Firsts—Chinese barbecued roast pork, steamed pork and water chestnut dumplings with sake braised shiitakes, Peking duck spring rolls with hoisin.
Mains—Bangkok chicken, charred Chilean sea bass with wok vegetables, Mongolian spicy beef with crispy noodles.
** TAPPO—403 East 12th Street (at First Avenue)—505-0001—It’s hard not to find something irresistible about Tappo. Refined rusticity reigns within the low-lit, honest setting. Bare wood farmhouse tables, distressed walls, quirky accessories and concrete floors provide a no-frills, no-nonsense sense of chic. Civilian-clad servers are well camouflaged among the casual crowd, but their genuine friendliness makes them distinctive. Chef Filippo Paolini’s (ex-Il Buco) Med-inspired cooking is devoid of clichés, yet can be unpredictable. Huge portions, moderate prices and an eclectic menu are Tappo’s primary attractions. There’s a wide array of wines by the glass and an equally impressive list of hard-to-come-by, reasonably priced Italian and French “country” varietals. Relaxed Tappo is a neighborhood place that draws all zip codes to the East Village. WWW $$$
Firsts—Sardine tartare, sautéed jumbo prawns with sea salt and olive oil.
Mains—Grilled lobster with watermelon and watercress, baked bay scallops with scallions and lime.
Finales—Ricotta cheesecake, panna cotta with balsamic vinegar.
*** TOWN—15 West 56th Street (between Fifth and Sixth Avenues in the Chambers Hotel)—582-4445—Slick, sexy and sprawling, chef/owner Geoffrey Zacharian's Town is a high-decibel subterranean playground. The stylish space, tucked under a soaring skylight within the mod interior of the snug Chambers Hotel, is tranquil by day, but don't be fooled. The duplex locale becomes more boisterous as lights dim and candles flicker into the night. The animated action revving within the body-to-body bar overflows into the restaurant proper. Designer David Rockwell's urbane interior of baubles, beading and reflective surfaces sets an appropriate stage for Zacharian's inventive modern cuisine. Although the concise menu reads well, a number of dishes can be overwrought and flavors muddled. Zacharian exhibits a flair for the dramatic; simplicity is the one ingredient missing from a number of his recipes. Service is polite but frenzied, and the kitchen is surprisingly slow to deliver. The highlight of this adventure is dessert, which consists of pairing artisanal cheeses with an appropriate sweet, such as Cabrales with poached pear. Other finales are substantive and whimsical. Town generates yet another see-and-be-seen scene around town.
Firsts—Smoked salmon with crispy fennel, risotto of escargots.
Mains—Cod with roasted beets and black truffles, rack of lamb with spaetzle, citrus fruit and olives.
Finales—Sourdough chocolate cake with organic malt ice cream, red grapefruit gratin with grapefruit ginseng sorbet.
** TRIOMPHE — 49 West 44th Street (between Fifth and Sixth Avenues in the Iroquois Hotel) — (212) 453-4233 — Blatant ambition reigns within this snug and brightly lit setting. Triomphe, situated within the recently revamped Iroquois Hotel, tries hard to break hotel dining stereotypes. Chef Steven Zobel (ex-Contrapunto, Sign of the Dove) has devised a concise, yet busy Franco-American menu of small portions at grand prices. His intricate cooking displays a confident creativity and offers few concessions to standard fare. Nevertheless, you'll still find a mundane hamburger sadly plated with a baked potato. Ingredients do not sparkle consistently and some presentations are clumsy. The room, which is about the size of a two-car garage, is cheerfully done up in a clean, unencumbered scheme. The focal point is an illuminated display of Cognac and Grappa bottles; a wall of mirrors allows the space to breathe. Earth-toned banquettes, straw-backed seats and discreetly checkered tablecloths dress the dozen tables. The wine list is ordinary and service is very hotel-like after all. $$$$ w
Firsts—Oyster stew, scallops with cauliflower purée and truffle oil.
Mains—Five-spiced grilled tuna with shiitake mushrooms and baby bok choy, N.Y. strip steak with grilled cèpes and roasted potatoes.
Finales— Poached Bosc pear with chestnut pound cake, crème brûlée.
**½ ZÓCALO—174 East 82nd Street (between Third and Lexington Avenues—717-7772—Zócalo is a riot of color, energy and twinkling Christmas lights. This boisterous, body-to-body neighborhood boîte is a never-ending block party, as executive chef Ivy Stark turns out confident, creative and sophisticated fare. From the first pungent sip of a glow-in-the-dark margarita to the last velvety spoonful of vanilla flan, Zócalo quickens your pulse and permeates your senses. Stark’s diverse yet carefully controlled menu is an intricate mosaic meshing tradition with unexpected twists. The intriguing tequila list is a definite draw, as is the well-balanced selection of wines. It’s all brought to you by a high-octane and well-versed team. The fun factor of the place fuels a roaring decibel level and the easy atmosphere is positively contagious. WWW $$$
Firsts—Sautéed calamari with chorizo, white beans, pequillo peppers and grilled bread, barbecued duck tamales with mango-habañero mojo.
Mains—Slow-cooked organic pork ribs with smoked jalapeño barbecue sauce, charros and onion rings, grilled chili-rubbed hanger steak with fried beans, guacamole and goat cheese enchilada.
Finales—Comice pear crisp, tres leches cake.
***½ V Steakhouse — 10 Columbus Circle, 4th Floor (at 60th Street) 212 823-9500 — Chef/owner Jean-Georges Vongerichten (whose restaurant empire includes the eponymous Jean Georges, 66, Vong, and JoJo) has installed an upscale steakhouse in the Time Warner building, which offers a dramatic view of Central Park South and fittingly, an upper floor gymnasium on Central Park West. The turf is by no means unfamiliar to him; he debuted Prime Steakhouse at the Bellagio Hotel in Los Vegas a couple of years ago. Vongerichten has created an opulent setting replete with gilded trees, crystal chandeliers, and red crushed-velvet dining chairs. The design scheme blends rococo and Victorian accents with a touch of Vegas brash. About the only thing V Steakhouse has in common with its local carnivore counterparts is prime beef – in this case dry aged beef from Niman Ranch. Otherwise, the menu reinterprets the steakhouse genre with signature Vongerichten flourishes you won’t find elsewhere. They are a mixture of fusion and French influences, ranging from sautéed foie gras with portabello mushrooms, to fripps made from potato skins in a tempura batter, to a crispy bacon roll made from pork belly. The wine list is well chosen, and even the wait staff can field questions about the listings with ease. Prices are high – but no higher than in similar establishments. WWW $$$$$
Firsts—Ribbons of tuna in a ginger marinade, tempura soft-shell crab with Napa cabbage stew.
Mains—Niman Ranch Porterhouse, seared Muscovy Duck breast.
Finales— Lemon meringue pie, chocolate layer cake.
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