**** ANNISA—13 Barrow Street (between Bleecker and West 4th Streets)—212-741-6699—Your expectations are high from the moment you’re swept into this idyllic gastronomic temple. Serenity reigns within the whitewashed coolness of Annisa’s raised dining platform. Chef/owner Anita Lo and partner Jennifer Scism have fashioned a gently stylish wonderland which casts a luminous glow throughout. Annisa translates as “women” in Arabic, and the restaurant delivers its own powerful draw. The almost poetic menu boasts a clean and contemporary cooking style. Recipes are crafted from fine seasonal ingredients into imaginative and elegant preparations. Lo’s inspired fusion cuisine continues to evolve much like intricate patterns on a kaleidoscope, while Scism’s intelligent wine list juxtaposes simplicity and big, concentrated bottlings from vineyards owned by women or wines created by female winemakers. Engaging service adds extra luster to an already polished experience. Annisa’s meticulous attention to detail and steady, unflappable attitude adds to its broadly eclectic appeal. WWW $$$$
Firsts—Beef Negimaki in broth with bone marrow, seared foie gras with soup dumplings and jicama.
Mains—Miso-marinated sable with crispy tofu in bonito broth, pan-roasted farm chicken with sherry, white truffles and pig’s feet.
Finales—Yogurt panna cotta with dates and sweet sherry, warm carrot macadamia nut cake.
**** ARTISANAL— 2 Park Avenue (Enter on 32nd Street between Park and Madison Avenues)—725-8585—Everything is going retro these days, and Artisanal is no exception. Chef/owner Terrance Brennan and cheese master Max McCalman have conspired to defy every cholesterol test by translating their all-consuming passion for cheese into the mainstay of this animated brasserie. From the moment you walk through the doors, the concentrated aroma of cheese envelops you. Artisanal is a bright, soaring, Adam Tihany-designed space, which features imposing burgundy pillars, vintage cheese-themed posters, bouncy banquettes and cane-backed seats. Paper-covered tables are printed with repros of cheese labels and are enhanced by quality flatware. A Vasarely-like tiled floor and pastoral mural intensify the room's vibrancy. Polite servers are a blur of activity. Artisanal's modern menu with traditional accents savors the seasons. The kitchen produces robust yet refined cuisine and portions are perfectly sized. Innovative signature fondues are a great group activity. Artisanal has lovingly assembled roughly 200 awe-inspiring varieties of cheeses, but don't be intimidated — the staff will expertly guide you. Pair your selection with wines from an extensive 125-label list. Under Brennan's keen eye, no attention to detail has been overlooked. WWWW $$$½
Firsts—Fondue of English cheddar and bacon, brandade de morue.
Mains—Rabbit au Riesling with rutabaga sauerkraut and mustard spaetzle, filet mignon.
Pre-finales—Roaring '40s blue cheese, Reblochon, drunken goat cheese.
Finales—Cheesecake with spiced strawberry-rhubarb compote, chocolate marquise.
**** BLT STEAK — 105 East 57th Street (between Lexington and Park Avenues) 212-752-7470—BLT, an acronym for Bistro Laurent Tourondel, marks the latest transformation of a space that has been home to Le Chantilly, David Ruggiero, Sono and most recently, Pazo. Designed by Michael Bagley, it features an enormous zinc bar, dark geometrical wood and suede paneling and ebony-topped tables. The warm, contemporary look redefines the steakhouse genre. Chef Tourondel, best known for his refined fish and seafood preparations at Cello (a popular Upper East Side Restaurant that closed its doors a few years ago) champions the carnivore over the piscine (although his excellent sautéed dover sole in caper brown butter sauce is well worth considering). Every cut of beef is prime and dry aged. You choose from more than half a dozen sauces to complement your main course. Instant signature dishes include gruyère-coated popovers and grilled foie gras “BLT” paired with bacon. Side dishes, such as hash brown potatoes and sautéed hen-of-the-wood mushrooms are all charged out as supplements. A 10,000-bottle wine list provides a substantial range of traditional and hard-to-come-by bottlings. Service is highly efficient. WWWW $$$$$
Firsts—Crab cake with celery mayonnaise, tuna tartare with soy-lime dressing.
Mains—New York Strip Steak, Kobe flat iron steak.
Finales—Chocolate tart, steamed banana pudding with rum raisin ice cream.
**** BEPPE — 45 East 22nd Street (between Park Avenue South and Broadway) — 982-8422 — There's always room for one more, and Beppe is a vibrant and good-humored addition to this restaurant-intensive block. The aromas from chef Cesare Casella's kitchen, along with the profusion of potted herbs lining the entranceway, awaken your senses. A quick stroll down a gentle ramp, past an ample cabinet stocked with stylishly packaged provisions leads you into this inviting Tuscan oasis. Everything is smartly understated in the softly painted rooms, which are enveloped by warm brickwork and crisp photographs. In season, a roaring fire gives off a flattering glow. Chef Casella (ex-Coco Pazzo) is noted not only for his signature pocket bouquet of herbs, but also his vigorous cooking, which covers both classic and creative territory. The menu runs the culinary gamut from deceptively simple to complex and dynamic. Casella's earthy preparations are generously portioned and meant to be shared. The savvy and unflappable management handles this bustling hang with finesse and the staff is happily accommodating. The wine list is intelligent and original. WWW $$$$
Firsts—Pontormo (warm salad with softly scrambled eggs, pancetta and tarragon vinaigrette), ciortoni (mackerel stewed with tomatoes, onions, black olives and fregola).
Mains—Country-fried lemon chicken with collard greens, split and grilled quail with a mushroom farro cake.
Finales—Yogurt panna cotta, ice cream sandwiches.
*½ BLUE FIN—1567 Broadway (at 47th Street in the W Hotel)—918-1400—As if your heart didn’t beat fast enough while standing smack in the middle of Times Square, now there’s a W Hotel to add to the thrill. Housed within is Blue Fin, a stylized and hip Steve Hanson-owned (Ruby Foo’s, Blue Water Grill, etc.) restaurant which seems right out of a “Wallpaper” photo shoot A spare, glass-enclosed bar (accessible directly from the street) offers an astonishing view of the never-ending loop of lights, billboards and traffic. The dimly lit duplex dining area is a lounge-like mecca of modern comfort, highlighted by a patterned wall of sand and schools of fish mobiles. Chef Paul Sale’s (ex-Icon) concise, seafood-dominated menu features a notable array of sushi and fanciful sushi rolls. The kitchen is hardly a gastronomic temple; instead it delivers safe bets that never seem to go full throttle on the plate or on the palate. Typical of Hanson’s restaurants, the staff (crowned with disconcerting headsets) provides swift and self-assured service. The wine list is well stocked and price points are accessible. Live jazz is moderately intrusive, and we never want to hear ‘The Girl from Ipanema” again. WW $$$$
Firsts—New England clam and lobster chowder, red beet and goat cheese salad.
Mains—Cumin-charred bigeye tuna with butternut squash and baby shiitakes, mustard-crusted skate wing with brussels sprouts and black pepper gnocchi.
Finales—Chocolate tasting, coconut panna cotta.
***½ BLUE HILL—75 Washington Place (between MacDougal Street and Sixth Avenue)—539-1776—Blue Hill, an easy-to-miss Village oasis, is named for a particularly scenic Berkshires address. The intimate townhouse setting offers a spare, earth-toned refuge warmed by glowing candlelight and floral flourishes. An intelligent staff keeps it all moving at a comfortable clip while infusing the room with grace and charm. Chef/owner Dan Barber and chef Michael Anthony celebrate local and seasonal ingredients on an inventive and inspirational menu. Barber’s honest, earthy cuisine showcases a delicate touch balanced with a disciplined sophistication. The place is packed as a result of the care and thoughtfulness of the cooking and lack of pretension throughout. A well-composed wine list adds to the warm serenity of this cozy experience. WWW $$$1⁄2
Firsts—Poached shrimp with marinated avocado and lemon-fennel dressing, Maine crabmeat lasagna.
Mains—Roasted chicken with brussels sprouts, almonds, pearl onions and mushroom puree, rack and leg of lamb with cabbage, red onions, baby carrots and couscous.
Finales—Chocolate coup, fromage blanc dumplings with roasted pineapple and lychee sorbet.
*** BRASSERIE 360—200 East 60th Street (corner of Third Avenue)—212-688-8688—Heads or tails? Braised veal cheeks or spicy tuna roll? Brasserie 360’s culinary coin toss plays east against west by merging the contrasting talents of Belgian-born chef Luc Dendievel (ex-Bayard’s, Waterloo) and sushi master Kazuo Yoshida (ex-Jewel Bako). This duplex setting covers considerable culinary terrain under a single roof. And both gastronomically hot menus are available regardless of where you sit. A perky street-level brasserie is home to Dendievel's gusto-inspired fare. His intricate cooking conveys a classic touch and thoughtful use of seasonal ingredients. Upstairs, a sushi bar showcases Yoshida’s knack for knives and the supreme quality of his luxuriously streamlined creations. You’re sure to be awed by the artistry of his technique. Brasserie 360’s formulaic design is a bit Disneyesque, flaunting a surfeit of perky posters, globe lights, ceiling fans and tiles. The wine list is user friendly either by the bottle or the glass; a well-informed service squad radiates an air of genuine hospitality. It’s easier to negotiate the marriage of this unexpected couple than your palate might expect. WW $$$½
Firsts—Thousand layers smoked salmon, toro tartare with creamy avocado sauce.
Mains—Risotto with roasted winter vegetables and prawns, sushi entrée featuring possibilities such as amberjack, seared salmon, spotted sardine, fried oyster and eel.
Finales—Cinnamon apple beignets, plum-stuffed steamed dumplings with ginger sauce and cilantro syrup.
** CAFÉ SABARSKY—1048 Fifth Avenue (at 86th Street)—288-0665—Nestled inside Ronald Lauder’s Neue Gallery which uniquely celebrates German and Austrian art and design, Café Sabarsky (named for fabled art dealer Serge Sabarsky) feeds the hungry hoards who enthusiastically flock to this jewel of a museum. Once upon a time, this spectacular setting was a Vanderbilt mansion — it’s laden with a wealth of architectural detailing. Rich, intricately carved paneling envelops a polished room embellished with repros of Adolph Loos chairs, Josef Hoffman sconces and Otto Wagner upholstery. Chef Kurt Gutenbrünner (Wallsé) has created a menu loaded with authentic Viennese crowd-pleasers. Like the museum itself, the café pays fastidious attention to every detail, including traditional carafes and wineglasses in which Austrian bottlings are poured. The mood is one of serene confidence and the elegant management of Alexander Engasser keeps the room flowing with warmth and grace. Closed Tuesdays. No reservations. $$$ W
Firsts—Chestnut soup, Viennese sausages with potato salad.
Mains—Hungarian beef goulash with herbed quark spaetzle, cod with Riesling sauerkraut.
Finales—Apple strudel, poppy seed cake.
***½ CESCA—164 West 75th Street (between Amsterdam and Columbus Avenues)—212-787-6300—Unlike most start-ups, Cesca has hit the ground running. Under the supremely confident direction of chef/owner Tom Valenti (whose Ouest also became an instant sensation when it debuted in 2001), Cesca gives new meaning to trattoria fare. You enter the restaurant via a crowded and clamorous bar where taverna snacks compete with festive cocktails. An ample display of dark woods gives a cozy and familiar feel to the space. In contrast, the restaurant proper glows in a bright yellow glaze and features an open kitchen where chefs become an integral part of the decor. The Southern Italian menu is rife with Valenti’s personal stamp from table-pleasers such as wood-oven roasted sardines to spicy parmesan fitters. Service is both prompt and friendly. The wine list contains numerous well-priced bottlings as well as an array of expensive Super-Tuscans and their equivalents. WWW $$$$½
Firsts— Housemade potato gnocchi (with braised duck and crisp garlic), roasted oysters, tomato zabaglione and crisp prosciutto
Mains—Pancetta-wrapped calf’s liver with pistachio and cippollini, swordfish with caponata.
Finales—Italian cheesecake with bitter orange and fennel orange brittle, buttermilk panna cotta with blood orange sauce.
** CELESTE—502 Amsterdam Avenue (between 84th and 85th Streets)—212-874-4559—How clever of the team behind midtown’s popular trattoria, Teodora to export their personal stamp of rustic, homey and well-priced cooking to an Upper West Side neighborhood saturated with mediocre eateries. Celeste is a standout—the countrified air of the place is immediately refreshing. Inside, pale blue and sparkling white tiles dot the walls of this crowded yet comfortable room, where simple pottery plates and flickering candles accent sturdy bare wooden tables. Outside seating completes the “lovingly-worn-blue-jeans” feel of the place. Chef/partner Giancarlo Quadalti’s state-of-the-art, wood-fired oven is a major draw, especially for those with voracious appetites, as classic pizzas of this caliber are not easy to come by. Free-formed and topped with the freshest ingredients, they're substantially sized and executed with a sure hand. Served by an enthusiastic, youthful team, the rest of the Neapolitan menu is well thought out, prepped with flair and generously plated. Celeste is a warm oasis that fills a distinctive neighborhood niche. W $$1⁄2
Firsts—Salad of thinly sliced baby artichokes with Parmesan slivers, fried buffalo ricotta cheese.
Mains—Pizza quattro stagioni (with prosciutto, mushrooms, artichokes, tomatoes and mozzarella), roasted salmon with spinach and potatoes.
Finales— Pastiera (ricotta cake), porcino gelato (mushroom-shaped hazelnut and chocolate gelato).
*** CRAFT—43 East 19th Street (between Park Avenue South and Broadway)—780-0880—Why pay a premium to build your own meal and basically serve yourself? Chef/owner Tom Colicchio (Gramercy Tavern) has put his personal spin on the culinary wheel at this expensive, hand-hewn installation. Colicchio's inspiration targets freedom of choice. Each dish—from firsts to mains, sides to finales—is listed separately, letting you construct your meal at whim. The challenge can be provocative, but the process can also prove confusing, distracting and even irritating (especially for diners intent on conversation who find themselves spending an inordinate amount of time on this gastronomic jigsaw puzzle). Fortunately, earnest blue-shirted servers offer guidance, but the kitchen can be excruciatingly slow to deliver your made-to-measure order. Dispense with the mixing and matching by choosing the chef's fixed-price market menu. Colicchio's multifaceted roster is a healthy, upscale survival kit. Be it raw, cured, marinated, roasted or braised, purity prevails and simplicity abounds. You add additional taste and texture to your plate by selecting from an earthy array of veggies, grains, beans and mushrooms (and your tab mushrooms as well). Delicate portions of condiments add bold exclamations of flavor. Your fare is presented in gleaming copper pots and on unadorned white plates; Craft's entire roster is meant to be shared. The commodious environs are an enriching diversion for the eye. An unencumbered, architecturally smart scheme flaunts rows of suspended Edison bulbs, cannily crafted metal, stone, wood, tile work and wafer-thin leather seats. A chic wall of wine frames the bar and preps your palate for the well-organized wine list. Craft is at the pinnacle of family-style dining — but at least you don't have to do the dishes. WW $$$$
Firsts—Sardines, Arctic char.
Mains—Braised monkfish, roasted cod.
Sides—Braised ramps, sautéed spinach.
Finales—Pistachio parfait with kumquats, roasted apples with apple cider sauce.
*** craftbar—47 East 19th Street (between Park Avenue South and Broadway)—780-0880—Snacking just got a lot snappier thanks to the latest streamlined inspiration from entrepreneurial chef/owner Tom Colicchio (Craft, Gramercy Tavern). Here you can savor a light, unhurried meal in just the right setting. Simplicity reigns in a perfectly spare, low-lit scheme which graces the long, lean room. Delight in the accommodating bar accented by a bit of metallic whimsy and a dash of autumnal color. Just beyond is chef Marco Canora’s calm and orderly open kitchen -- which provides little entertainment as everything is always under control. A simple Italian menu of rustic appetizers, cold plates and sandwiches allows for easy ordering. Portions are precisely rationed. Three additional entrees of fish, meat and pasta (which change daily) round out the foolproof roster. The stark sophistication of the cooking is embellished by an honest wine list, rife with unusual selections by the glass. Smiling staffers add to the positive aura of the place. No reservations. WW $$½
Firsts—Fried sage leaves stuffed with sausage, stuffed risotto balls.
Mains—Warm sandwich of duck ham, Taleggio cheese and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, veal ricotta meatballs.
Finales— Apple fritters with caramel ice cream, chocolate tart with pistachio ice cream.
** CRISPO—240 West 14th Street (between Seventh and Eighth Avenues)—229-1818—Nestled within a discreet storefront on frenzied 14th Street, chef/owner Frank Crispo’s (Zeppole, Chef and Cuisiniers Club) welcoming setting is rustic yet urbane. Done up in neutral hues, the well-worn look of the interior combines exposed brick, distressed wood, vintage tile flooring, bare glossy tables and a bounty of whimsical photos. An energetic, hip crowd (representing a range of zip codes) enhances the décor and busy bar. From a semi-open kitchen, Crispo and his team produce a concise menu with mass-appeal—simplicity and inviting prices predominate. The accent is on concentrated American/Mediterranean flavors that flaunt the seasons. The key component of Crispo’s culinary niche? Fresh and dependable homey chow. Servers orchestrate the crowded yet comfortable arena with ease and set an unpretentious tone; a focused wine list offers reliable tastes by the glass and the bottle. This neighborhood destination seeks to please every table without making too much of a fuss. WW $$$1⁄2
Firsts—Fried clams and calamari, roasted beets with pickled onions and goat cheese.
Mains—Grilled salmon with Savoy cabbage and pancetta, lamb chops Milanese with eggplant caviar.
Finales—Buttermilk panna cotta with peaches, tiramisu.
***½ CRU—24 Fifth Avenue ( at 9th Street) —212.529-1700—This pre-war Greenwich Village location has been home to a host of restaurants (most recently, Washington Park) and with a new crew now in place, it shows every indication of becoming a permanent fixture. One of its principal draws is owner Roy Welland’s spectacular 3,200-entry, 65,000-bottle wine collection (downloadable from www.cru-nyc.com) which is rife with extraordinary crus from France, Italy, Germany and California. It is deftly overseen by partner Robert Bohr, a seasoned New York sommelier. Chef Shea Gallante, Bouley’s former chef de cuisine, prepares a seasonally-inspired contemporary menu with European accents. His signature touches range from crudo—raw fish preparations—to handmade pastas. Pastry chef Will Goldfarb complements Gallante’s creative combinations with a sensible and occasionally whimsical dessert menu. The 62-seat dining room was designed by architect Sasha Goldberg, whose scheme includes a handsome two-sided bar, dark brown banquettes and dark Cocobolo woods. Deco-like fixtures float above the room, creating a stylish though somewhat subdued lighting effect. Service is highly efficient. The depth and breadth of the wine cellar (112 listings from Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, 35 wines from Henri Jayer and 14 vintages of Château Rayas Châteauneuf du Pape) is a sensational complement to Gallante’s imaginative fare.
Firsts—White tuna with olive praline, caper-espresso and chives, rabbit cotechino
with lentils, speck and mustard essence.
Mains—Hudson Valley duck breast, with roasted eggplant and figs, rack of Jameson
Farm lamb with fava beans, white asparagus and mint,
Finales—Mascarpone parfait, citrus terrines with olive oil cake.
*** davidburke & donatella — 133 E 61st St — (between Lexington and Park Avenues) — (212) 813-2121 — The space which for years was home to the legendary Nanni Il Valetto now welcomes a joint venture between seasoned restaurateurs David Burke and Donatella Arpaia. Each of them brings substantial experience to the table — both in the kitchen and in the front room. The newly renovated quarters are as varied as Burke’s own cooking. A bar and smallish eating area lead into the main dining room, which is distinguished by an enormous crystal chandelier (a Nanni legacy) and a stunning bright-red glass sculpture by artist Dale Chihuly. Massive mirrors and red Roman shades round out the look. Burke, whose eclecticism became a trademark at Park Avenue Café and the Smith & Wollensky Group, has incorporated signature dishes like parfait of salmon and tuna tartares and pastrami salmon onto the menu and has introduced instant classics such as the lobster “steak.” His cooking remains hearty and assured. Despite working out of a miniscule kitchen, the staff manages to deliver. Arpaia (who also owns Bellini on east 52nd Street) works the crowd assuredly, keeping a cool eye on the wait staff and her tony regulars. The wine list is organized according to a specific region’s geometric coordinates, so if you don’t know the difference between longitude and latitude, making a selection from this well-stocked list can be confusing. WWW $$$$$
Firsts—Dayboat sea scallops benedict, foie gras terrine.
Mains—Wild mushroom cavatelli, Bronx style filet mignon of veal.
Finales—Tahitian crème brûlée, chocolate and praline torte.
***½ DB BISTRO MODERNE—55 West 44th Street (between Fifth and Sixth Avenues)—391-2400—When you’re a household name like world class chef Daniel Boulud, why not christen your latest outpost with just your initials (even if it sounds a bit like a fashion label). DB, although a watered-down version of Boulud's luxurious uptown ventures, still exudes a knack for redefining classics with refreshing creativity. DB offers a succinct menu, divided into specific seasonal food categories (including tomatoes, asparagus, mushrooms, lobster, tuna, salmon, fowl and beef). Initials are taken to the extreme here; there’s a choice of "aps" (appetizers) "mc's" (main courses) and "sd's" (side dishes). Thankfully, desserts are traditionally listed, making it all a little less precious. The long, slim, split-level space is an exercise in contrasts. Designer Jeffrey Beers' intense red front room, replete with photos of colossal blossoms, beckons almost wickedly. The sedate scheme at the back of the house features closely placed tables, projecting a spare, neutrally toned starkness. The greeting is perky, but the less-than-polished staff is well intended. Chef de cuisine Jean François Bruel's French-American cooking projects clean, unencumbered flavors, but the wait between courses will leave you fidgety. With its user-friendly theater district address, DB is a culinary chance for all to experience a reinterpretation of the fabled Boulud style. But don’t expect an extensive wine list—it’s suprisingly condensed. WW $$$$
Firsts—Lobster, artichoke and string bean amandine salad, asparagus salad with Maryland crab.
Mains—Lobster ravioli with morels and peas, steak au poivre with root vegetables.
Finales—Cherry gratin, coffee-caramel pot de crème.
*½ EISENBERG’S SANDWICH SHOP—174 Fifth Avenue (between 23rd and 24th Streets)—675-5096—Eisenberg’s has been around since 1929 and, happily, little has changed at this nostalgic reminder of simpler times. Under a high tin ceiling, the lean, lengthy space flaunts a well-worn black marble counter and gleaming Thunderbird-red vinyl stools. Vintage accents of dull stainless steel, foggy mirrors and scotch-tape-encrusted sandwich boards further contribute to the place’s authenticity. There’s no allure of fast food within these walls. The honest menu, a complement to the décor, tantalizes even the most discerning palates as homey preparations cover familiar territory without pretension. Countermen keep it all moving with friendly informality. Portions are gargantuan yet quantity balances with quality. Although the ambiance and even the prices inhabit another time, Eisenberg’s has the culinary bases covered. You’re living large as you spin on a counter stool and inhale the hustle and bustle of it all. $
Firsts—Matzo ball soup, cold borscht with sour cream.
Mains—Tuna salad sandwich, jumbo franks and beans.
Finales—Rice pudding, pie à la mode.
Drinks—Lime rickey, egg cream.
***½ FLEUR DE SEL—5 East 20th (between Broadway and Fifth Avenue)—460-9100—Genuine fleur de sel is a lovingly harvested variety of natural sea salt from Brittany. Chef/owner Cyril Renaud’s (ex-La Caravelle) Fleur de Sel is a labor of love, too, and a gem for sure. His monochromatic boîte sports brick walls and terracotta-tiled floors while injections of color infuse the simple rooms through primitive paintings and prints crafted by Renaud himself. Towering floral displays contribute to the casual, countrified air of the place. Renaud’s vigorous French cuisine flaunts unexpected seasonal ingredients, original recipes that are rich in substance yet convey a light and modern sensibility. Traditions are updated with a fresh and thoughtful spin. A low-key staff works the room unobtrusively, but the kitchen can be a tad slow to deliver—so exhale and relax. The finely tuned wine list features noteworthy and well-priced varieties by the glass. Whether flooded with sunlight by day or blurred by soft lighting at night, Fleur de Sel transports you to the French countryside at any time. WWW $$$$$
Firsts—Crepe stuffed with braised rabbit and carrots in a sweet carrot emulsion, octopus terrine with poppy and sesame seeds.
Mains—Seared sea scallops with Jerusalem artichoke puree, loin of venison in a beet licorice sauce with smoked venison sausage and sweet potato gratin.
Finales—Banana mousse, Bartlett pear tartare with hazelnut ice cream.
** FRED’S AT BARNEY’S—660 Madison Avenue (at 61st Street)—833-2200—Fred’s at Barney’s has been elevated from its subterranean digs to a rooftop respite for busy shoppers. The airy yet bland decor has a definite department-store feel—white and bright with plenty of windows offset by earth tones, upholstery and detailing. The high energy of the place springs from the buzzing crowd. Partner Mark Straussman’s seasoned operation boasts a menu loaded with the familiar and executes it like clockwork. He’s an old hand at Italian-Jewish comfort food, which clearly satisfies Fred’s famished fashionistas. Svelte servers scurry to keep the tables turning. The wine list is competent but forgettable. Like your Barney’s charge card, the tab can easily swell with little to show for it. $$$$ WW
Firsts—Sautéed chicken livers on crostini, home- cured salmon on a potato latke with caviar and crème fraîche.
Mains—Crab cakes with pommes frites, spaghetti alla Bolognese.
Finales—Flourless citrus chocolate cake, chunky apple tart.
** FRESH—105 Reade Street (between Church Street and West Broadway)—406-1900—Chef/owner Matthew Burge (ex-Gotham Bar & Grill) and partners (of late, Early Morning Seafood) have summed up their collaboration in one essential word: “Fresh.” This sprawling TriBeCa installation boasts industrial minimalism, brought to you in nautical hues: “cloudy day gray,” “seafaring blue,” “fish skin silver,” and “white cap white.” Although it’s chock-full of understated furnishings, there’s a raw vibe to the mix where something about this seafood mecca seems more Upper West Side in look, feel and composition. Burge’s expansive creativity is evident in every letter of the diverse and ever-evolving menu. Naturally, ingredients are ultra-fresh. His unconventional recipes are a mixed blessing—provocative yet at times surprisingly unchallenging. Appetizers offer a trove of sparkling modern interpretations, but mains can be inconsistent and heavy handed in execution. The bare bones setting is warmed by all-too-eager servers clad in button-down shirts and khakis—evocative of a summertime country club staff. Beware: Sound ricochets off every angle of the room while food and wine prices for an experience of this caliber are higher than the neighborhood’s going rate. WW $$$$
Firsts—Ceviche, crabmeat and avocado gazpacho.
Mains—Fried haddock with fried potatoes, tournedo of Atlantic salmon
Finales—Wild strawberry shortcake, blueberry financier.
**½ GONZO—140 West 13th Street (between Sixth and Seventh Avenues)—645-4606—Chef Vincent Scotto (ex-Scopa, Fresco) brings considerable experience and the signature style of his brawny cooking to this townhouse trattoria. The decorative venue features a bustling bar, buzzing semi-open kitchen, faux windows, undressed tabletops and bare floors. Carpets are hung on the walls, and an Italianate-style ceiling is elaborately painted in expressive primary hues. Big flavors abound on Scotto’s well-endowed and detailed menu, designed for sharing. He consistently achieves a balance between classic and creative dishes, but some are burdened by a lack of finesse. Scotto’s near perfect rendition of grilled pizza is a potent draw, and the extensive variety of unconventional trimmings entices with palate intriguing combinations. A sturdy wine list complements the cooking’s intensity, and the tab is surprisingly reasonable. Unobtrusive servers circulate through the happy crowd with ease as decibels become almost bone-shaking as the night rolls on. WW $$$½
Firsts—Grilled pizza with caponata and cumin-scented ricotta , grilled onion salad.
Mains—Rabbit stew, Tuscan steak.
Sides—Creamy polenta, grilled endive.
Finales—Pecan ice cream sandwich, brown sugar cheesecake.
** GOOD WORLD BAR & GRILL—3 Orchard Street (between Canal and Division Streets)—212-925-9975—The Spartan interior of Good World looks like a candidate for renovation, but you wouldn’t want to repair one flake of peeling paint or replace a chipped chair from this perfectly blemished setting. Distressed walls of drab saffron and institutional green envelop a lengthy bar and well-placed bare tables while a mounted caribou head with a glassy-eyed gaze surveys the revel rousing within. Although the room has a smoky cast, there’s a fresh spin to owner Annika Sundvik’s kitchen. An eclectic menu navigates Scandinavian regional cuisine with original, gusto-inspiring executions. High notes are hit with quirky preparations rooted in tradition and updated with concentrated flavors, contrasting textures and colorful presentations. No-nonsense drinks and a fine beer list (along with inviting prices) are a major draw. The laid-back and easygoing staff maintains the uncontrived charms of the place. Ambitiously named Good World is as cool as a reindeer, but projects the warmth of a roaring fireplace. W $$1⁄2
Firsts—Lime and chili-blackened salmon with chèvre crème, Norwegian shrimps with vaterbotten.
Mains—Swedish meatballs with mashed potatoes, pickled cucumbers and lingonberry sauce, grilled halibut with Parmesan-gratinated artichokes and avocado crème.
Finales—Chocolate cake, mini pancakes with gooseberry jam.
*** THE HARRISON—355 Greenwich Street (at Harrison Street)—274-9310—The Harrison (set in the former site of Spartina) is a bright beacon emerging from the shadows of Ground Zero. Chef/owner Jimmy Bradley (The Red Cat) and partner Danny Abrams have launched a laid- back, handsome destination featuring good cooking and a universally amiable attitude. Deceptive simplicity is the key to the considerable pleasures of this fun, vibrant and decently priced oasis. Bradley’s Med-influenced menu is steadfast and honest with strokes of sophistication in each dish. His focused cuisine is always in fashion. Massive servings are brought to you by intelligent servers. A versatile wine list is an integral part of the draw; don’t overlook Bradley’s private label wines (“The Red Cat” and “The Harrison,” naturally) which are vinified by distant-cousin Pio Boffa of renowned Pio Cesare winery. The easy charm of The Harrison encourages the luxury of lingering. A boisterous crowd revels as the night revs on. WWW $$$½
Firsts—Ricotta cavatelli with braised veal cheeks, bresaola with Tallegio and fig syrup.
Mains—Arctic char with cauliflower, crisped chicken with lemon-mustard suace and mashed potatoes.
Finales—Chocolate beignets, pistachio financier.
*** HEARTH — 403 East 12th Street (at First Avenue) — 646-602-1300 — Two veterans of Gramercy Tavern and Craft, chef-owner Marco Canora and partner Paul Grieco, have combined their talents to create a refreshing and original destination for American fare tinged with Italian accents. Hearth’s earthy name belies the sophistication of the kitchen and staff — more redolent of an uptown establishment than the East Village. The space is casual but spare, engulfed by wooden tables and chairs, and warmed by a red ceiling. There are two dining rooms plus limited seating at the kitchen counter. A back dining area tempers decibels with felt-upholstered walls smartly studded with copper strips and vintage copper pots. Chef Canora brings a seasoned hand to expertly flavored dishes, importing a few of Craft’s signature creations like potato gnocchi and braised veal breast. Wisely, he also imported pastry chef Lauren Dawson, herself a Craft alumni. The well-structured wine list, devised by Grieco, offers an attractive array of bottlings at various price points. WWWW $$$½
Firsts—Ribollita with black cabbage and white beans, foie gras torchon.
Mains—Braised veal breast with roasted sweetbreads, cauliflower and carrots, roasted cod with red peppers and salsa verde.
Finales—Goat's-milk panna cotta, apple cider doughnuts with apple compote and maple cream.
***1/2 ILO—40 West 40th Street (between Fifth and Sixth Avenues in the Bryant Park Hotel)—642-2255—Hotel restaurants are on the fast track to becoming hot destinations on the drinking and dining circuit. Chef/partner Rick Laakkonen's Ilo (which means "a joyous sense of well being" in Finnish) in the compact Bryant Park Hotel is the latest addition. From a cushy comfort zone nestled behind picture windows, this playfully posh, multi-tiered mecca affords postcard-perfect views of Bryant Park. A polished sense of style prevails amidst towering floral displays, accents of resplendent red, shimmering silver-tiled columns and subtle damask-patterned walls. Laakkonen (ex-River Cafe) has fastidiously created an intelligent, poetic menu showcasing exceptional produce. His cooking style is flamboyant but not overly fussy; clean flavors dominate each dish. The staff is ever courteous, but almost too formal for the minimalist modern setting. A pair of female sommeliers have crafted a wine list heavy on classics — a perfect accouterment to the kitchen’s output. But higher than expected prices ultimately detract from Ilo's "joyous sense of well being." WWW $$$$$
Firsts — Artichoke soup with wild mushrooms and sunchokes, grilled quail with white hominy and cheese flan.
Mains — Pan-roasted rabbit with dandelion and sheep's milk ricotta cannelloni, grilled sturgeon with black vinegar eggplant, asparagus and rouille sauce.
Finales — Strawberry and passion fruit tart, almond and butterscotch gateau.
**½ INSIDE—9 Jones Street (near Sheridan Square)—229-9999—Step through the tasteful facade of Inside, and once inside, you'll happily discover a definitive neighborhood restaurant. The clever collaboration of owner Anne Rosensweig and chef Charleen Badman (ex-Lobster Club) is devoid of pretension and amiably priced. The comfy sliver of a space is smartly spare; warmed by candlelight, crisp tablecloths, flower boxes, photos and vintage African masks. A snug bar provides a chummy respite from the throngs mobbing the village streets. Simplicity reigns on Badman's concise menu, which lovingly celebrates the seasons with sparkling ingredients. The thoughtful roster is ever evolving as she tinkers with and fine-tunes each dish. This clean, homey cuisine takes comfort fare to a higher plateau. Each plate is sensibly yet stylishly composed. The white apron-clad staff is easygoing and knowing at every turn. A succinct but creative wine list matches the kitchen's bounty of clear and unencumbered flavors. WW $$$
Firsts—Squash blossoms with lemon aioli, sweet pea soup.
Mains—Grouper with spring succotash, roasted chicken with artichokes and chickpeas.
Finales—Panna cotta with mango, crackling tart with pecans and walnuts.
**** JEWEL BAKO—239 East 5th Street (between Second Avenue and Cooper Square)—979-1012—Under the cool serenity of stylish bamboo arches, Jack and Grace Lamb’s Jewel Bako (“jewel box”) is a hip yet intimate domain. Their confident East Village boîte soothes your senses; attention to detail is pampering. The high caliber of sushi and sashimi hails from pristinely fresh, top-quality fish. The global list of impeccable daily arrivals is dizzying, further enlivened by artfully composed plates and platters. Select an omakase (tasting) meal and leave the luxury of timing, as well as the exotic and surprising choice, up to the chef. The result is an intricate and delicate revelation, enriched by the unpretentious charm of the place. The sake selection is loaded with interest, as is a worthy complement of wines. Due to the compact size and popularity of this oasis, be prepared to wait for your table; no one’s in a hurry for the adventure to end. WW $$$$
Firsts—Red miso with mitsuba, nameko mushrooms and yuba skin, toro tartare with osetra caviar in a creamy avocado sauce.
Mains—Sushi jyo (chutoro, tuna, kanpachi, jack mackeral, Japanese red snapper, jumbo sweet shrimp, eel, clam, salmon, and tuna roll. Sashimi jyo (similar selections with rice).
Finales—Lychee and coconut sorbet, jewel-like gelatin squares of peanut, sesame, green tea, coffee and chocolate.
**½ JIMMY’S UPTOWN—2207 Adam Clayton Powell Jr. Boulevard (Seventh Avenue at 127th Street)—491-4000—The modern, hard-edged interior of this favored neighborhood haunt casts a mysterious and almost otherworldly glow onto the street. Jimmy’s Uptown presents a sprawling setting dominated by vivid orange back-lit walls and intimate, wrap-around banquettes. Savvy owner Jimmy Rodriguez runs an ultra-smooth operation that leaves nothing to chance. The greeting is affable (even to the uninitiated) and the waitstaff is energetic and meticulous. Executive chef Linda Japnie’s casual South-American influenced cuisine displays a knack for creativity and a firm commitment to market-fresh ingredients. Her stylish yet focused menu offers intriguing possibilities—enhanced by high-caliber daily specials. A sensible wine list balances price and provenance. The handsome second-floor lounge provides plenty of options as the night hits its stride. (Rodriguez has just debuted Jimmy’s Downtown at 400 East 57th Street.) WWW $$$½
Firsts—Ceviche tasting, shrimp hush puppies.
Mains—Pecan-crusted catfish with coconut rice and tomato chutney, grilled skirt steak with ginger mash.
Finales—Warm chocolate cake, sweet potato pie.
**½ LE ZINC—139 Duane Street (between Hudson and West Broadway)—513-0001—Karen and David Waltuck champion the art of fine dining at their high-end haven, Chanterelle. At Le Zinc, the Waltucks have taken a 180-degree culinary turn by creating a friendly priced, no-reservations, no-nonsense neighborhood hang. They have transformed the space that housed the original Le Zinc with a freshly scrubbed look. The spare white-walled interior is plastered with posters, bare tables, comfy banquettes and—no surprise—a substantial zinc bar. The staff is easygoing but the kitchen’s timing can be poky. Le Zinc offers a homey, heavy-handed menu, laden with fried fare. Portions are huge and the plates themselves are barely visible when presented. Wines by the glass are skimpily poured, although the selection is extensive. The positive karma form former incarnations of Le Zinc prevails at this high-octane, high-decibel scene. $$$ WWW
Firsts—Curried onion fritters, chicken saté with peanut sauce.
Mains—Roasted chicken grandmère, stuffed cabbage.
Finales—Maple crème caramel, Meyer lemon tart
**½ LENTINI—1562 Second Avenue (at 81st Street)—628-3131—Amidst the blur of Second Avenue restaurants, Lentini is a true neighborhood standout. The place is named for brothers Guiseppe and Enzo Lentini. Chef Guiseppe (noted for his long reign over the stoves at perennially popular Elio’s) cooks with a deft touch and achieves a well-balanced combination of classic, multi- regional Italian flavors. Lentini’s pungent menu features well executed favorites prepped with quality ingredients. The comfy but somewhat glitzy interior is done up with its fair share of polished marble and wood, accented by warm hues of terra-cotta and the glow of Murano glass sconces. Enzo oversees an ever-evolving list of serious and unexpected wines. The greeting and gracious service inject more personality into the convivial room. $$$$$ WWWW
Firsts—Fried calamari, zucchini blossoms stuffed with smoked mozzarella.
Mains—Grilled tuna with aged balsamic vinegar, risotto with Gorgonzola and radicchio.
Finales—Cassata, tiramisu.
**** L’IMPERO—45 Tudor City Place (between 42nd and 43rd Street)— 599-5045—You almost need gingerbread crumbs to trace your way to and from this hard-to-find Tudor City hideaway (which can be accessed by car from 41st Street between First and Second Avenues or via a challenging stairwell from First Avenue). The discreet façade belies the electricity that permeates this polished setting that feels more like London than New York. Partner Vincente Wolf’s ultra-crisp design concept incorporates shimmering hues of mellow acquas and blues, deep chocolate brown and gleaming white enhanced by contrasting nubby textures. Chef/partner Scott Conant’s focused and fascinating ingredient pairings are a match well suited to the engaging environment. L’Impero challenges diners with an unusual level of sophistication, and one can’t help but appreciate the meticulous attention to detail. Conant’s lavish Italian cooking displays a fresh perspective, flamboyance and a firm handle on restraint. His unconventional recipes are luxurious yet never lose the pungency of their ingredients. Operating partner Chris Cannon’s carefully compiled wine list is well endowed with good values at every price point. Smooth service is unfailingly upbeat. Escape to L’Impero—a gem-like haven where every creature comfort is attended to. WWWW $$$$$
Firsts—Sea scallops with broccoli rabe and sunchokes, fricassee of seasonal mushrooms with creamy polenta and truffle reduction
Mains—Agnolotti stuffed with braised duck and foie gras, sashimi quality tuna poached in olive oil.
Composed Cheese Plates—Piave with caramelized onions and Chianti vinegar, Taleggio with sweet red beet compote and pink peppercorns.
Finales— Quince pecorino crostata with buffalo ricotta ice cream, sesame cannoli with orange mascarpone mousse and cantaloupe sorbet.
**½ landmarc — 179 West Broadway (between Leonard and Worth Streets) 212.343-3883 — Chef Marc Murphy (ex-La Fourchette) and his wife Pamela Shein Murphy have created a comfortable and casual neighborhood hangout that packs serious destination dining potential. Behind a pair of heavy steel doors lies a two-story, 100-seat exercise in industrial chic, featuring exposed brick walls, poured concrete floors, dining tables resting on i-beams and artwork created by friends of the Murphys. Other design flourishes include a sleek five-seat bar, a semi-private dining booth humorously christened “The VIP Room,” and a stylish upstairs wine cellar. Murphy’s menu is an amalgam of French and Italian bistro classics with contemporary American accents — all of which reflect his individualized approach to dining. In what is becoming a Manhattan standard, you can build your own meal by selecting from an array of sauces that accompany mussels or beef. Service is relaxed and the wine list is reasonably priced. Reservations are only taken for parties of six or more. $$$ WWW½
Firsts—Warm goat cheese profiteroles, foie gras terrine with pickled red onions.
Mains—Boudin noir, braised lamb shank with celery root purée.
Finales—Crème brûlée, chocolate bread pudding.
*** LEVER HOUSE RESTAURANT—390 Park Avenue (corner 53rd Street)— 212-888-2700 — It’s undeniable that Marc Newson’s striking interior is at the cutting edge of contemporary design. What’s debatable is whether his scheme resembles a beehive, a 1950’s television set or an airplane hanger. You enter the 130-seat vaulted restaurant via a ramp illuminated by bright white neon railings and encounter a ubiquitous octagonal-shaped motif embedded on the carpets, the ceilings and etched glass fixtures. Depending on the hour, decibels can be piercing due to a bevy of exposed hard surfaces. Executive chef Dan Silverman’s (ex-Alison on Dominick) bold American cuisine is a good foil for the décor; imaginative, contemporary, though far less whimsical. A broad variety of grilled dishes should appeal to daytime diners (and with côte de boeuf for two charged out at $76, you’ll need an expense account to cushion the check). The wine list is far from standard, with a good selection by the glass. Several bottlings are priced under $40. Service is seamless. $$$$$ www
Firsts—Grilled short-rib with frisée, lobster tempura with tartar sauce.
Mains—Pan-roasted poussin with foie gras sauce, seared halibut with fennel and cucumber
Finales— Plum tart with almond panna cotta and cinnamon ice cream, warm cookies with mini black-and-white malted.
SYMBOLS
FOOD WINE LIST
***** Incomparable WWWWW
**** Remarkable WWWW
*** Impressive WWW
** Noteworthy WW
* Ordinary W
COST (without wine, tip or tax)
$$$$ 40-50 dollars
$$$ 30-40 dollars
$$ 20-30 dollars
$ 10-20 dollars
½ 5 dollars
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